Complete Panettone Guide 2022: how to find your perfect panettone

Panettone History: Milanese Origins

Panettone’s origins are probably several thousand years old. Some trace its beginnings to Ancient Rome, with sources noting a special type of bread that was sweetened with honey. That remote ancestor of today’s Christmas favorite would have tasted nothing like the modern version, though.

There are also several origin stories placing the birth of panettone in the Renaissance. They star some unlikely characters, including a rich man who is so desperate to marry a poor baker’s daughter that he single-handedly invents the sweet bread with raisins and lemon zest to bolster her father’s standing at the Sforza court; a kitchen apprentice Toni who saves the day by concocting a last-minute panettone when his master’s cake intended for a big court celebration is destroyed; or a nun who invents the said cake to cheer up her sisters.

All of them sound too much like a fairy tale to be true, I fear. But they do have one thing in common – they all take place in Lombardy. It is accepted by most historians that this particular flavor of sweet leavened bread was indeed the specialty in and around Milan at least since the 16th century. The idea of sweet bread with fruit and spices, however, has never been a local affair.

The whole point of festive bread was always to use rare, precious and hard-to-come-by ingredients to match the significance of the celebration. And as a special occasion recipe, panettone had always relied on global trade, according to the book “Il panettone. Storia, leggende, segreti e fortune di un protagonista del Natale” by Stanislao Porzio.

The modern history of panettone begins in Milan in 1919 when the baker Angelo Motta, recognizing its commercial potential, starts producing the cake on a large scale to supply customers everywhere in Italy. It was also Motta who had changed the baking process, giving panettone its cupola (the dome shape) and the modern fluffy consistency.

Another Milanese baker, Gioacchino Alemagna, copied Motta and started large-scale production of his own in 1925. The fierce competition between the two was a blessing for the customers because it made panettone famous well beyond Italy’s borders.

Both Motta and Alemagna brands still exist and are now owned by another household panettone name – Bauli. All three make traditional mass-produced and therefore very affordable panettone. You can get a Bauli for around 7€, Motta starts at about 10€, and Alemagna checks out for approximately 20€. They are an unexciting, but safe option.

What is Panettone? Differences between panettone, pandoro and colomba

The debate whether panettone is to be considered a sweet bread or a type of cake is still ongoing. The name “panettone” roughly means “large loaf cake” or “big bread”. Italians bought 75 million of them in 2016, followed by Peruvians who consumed 42 million (albeit made with slightly different ingredients, which is scoffed at in Italy).

Panettone is such an important part of Italian food culture that there are official guidelines specifying what it should be made of. It has to consist of no less than 20% candied citrus and raisins, 16% butter, category A (e.g., fresh) eggs that are at least 4% yolk, wheat flour, sugar, sourdough and salt. (Among other things, this requirement means one cannot sell a “vegan panettone” in Italy because the name “panettone” can only be applied to a product that contains butter and eggs.)

Not mandatory, but allowed are milk, honey, malt, cocoa butter, yeast (no more than 1%), natural aromas and natural-identical aromas, emulsifiers, the preservatives ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate.

Traditional panettone doesn’t have any frosting on top. The popular Veneziana variety has a crunchy crust made of almonds and sugar sprinkles that looks like the Venetian lace, hence the name.

Such guidelines exist not only for panettone, but also for its siblings – pandoro and columba.

Pandoro

Pandoro and panettone are often mixed up outside Italy because both are fluffy cakes eaten during the Christmas celebrations. There are some essential differences, though.

Panettone comes from Milan, has a round shape and candied fruit or raisins inside. Pandoro originates from Verona, looks like a star-shaped dome, has a higher butter content (20% compared to panettone’s 16%) and no fruit inside. Unlike panettone, pandoro is sprinkled with powdered sugar before being served.

Each cake type has its fans. Purists and those who don’t like candied fruit consider the richer, buttery pandoro to be the true luxury. Those who prefer the lighter texture and more flavor opt for panettone. Many Italian families choose not to argue and put both on the table.

In terms of sales, panettone seems to be winning by a slim margin.

Colomba

Colomba means “dove” in Italian and is eaten around Easter. The main visible difference between it and panettone is the shape – colomba is shaped like (a very stylized) dove. Unlike its naked round Christmas cousin, colomba has a delicious crust consisting of pearl sugar and almonds. Inside, colomba features only candied orange peel (panettone also has raisins and other citrus types).

The dove shape nicely lends itself to Easter holidays as a symbol of peace and rebirth. Its origins might go further down the timeline and relate to pagan traditions.

The modern colomba is the child of the infamous baker Motta. He had built a large factory to make huge quantities of panettone. But it was traditionally consumed only for Christmas. Unwilling to let the expensive baking equipment stand idle for the rest of the year, the company tweaked the recipe just a little, changed the shape – and voilà! An Easter hit was born!

Whether panettone, pandoro or colomba, all three require a complicated and lengthy process to make, and thus have never been a home-made cake. Italians love to cook, but even they have always preferred to pay a professional instead of spending 30 or more hours dancing with sourdough in the kitchen.

Cheap vs. Expensive Panettone: what are the differences?

Italy is working on protecting panettone under the European Protected geographical indication (PGI) umbrella, which would prohibit to use the name for cakes made outside of Lombardy, but the rules are not in place yet. This allows bakers around the world to call any product they choose “panettone” even if it has little to do with the original recipe.

Cheap international panettone

If you manufacture outside of Italy and are not bound by the Italian regulations, just take less candied fruit, swap butter for margarine or other fats, replace real eggs with egg-powder and you’ve got something that costs little and looks like panettone, but gives only a sad approximation of the taste.

Another factor is time. Back in the day, Angelo Motta revolutionized panettone production by letting the dough rise three times to achieve the light soft texture (it was also him who had the idea to put panettone into “pirottino” (the paper around the base) that produces the dome shape). That process took a whole day.

24 hours is a prohibitively long production time for big-scale modern bakeries. Not surprising that industrial panettone-imitations that originate outside of Italy will not be given that time. This means a denser texture that resembles a traditional cake rather than a panettone.

Made in Italy: entry-level vs. luxury

What about the budget-friendly panettone made in Italy? After all, they must comply with the rules. But make no mistake, Italian industrial products will be made with exactly the minimum quantities required in the official guidelines.

Artisanal panettone will have higher amounts of yolks and butter without emulsifiers or preservatives. They will contain real vanilla beans and not the cheaper vanillin. The fruit will be high quality candied citrus (not only orange, but often also pricier citron) and not industrial candied citrus with sulfur dioxide. The aromas will be all-natural and not the so called nature-identical ones.

High-end panettone is not only made with better ingredients. It also needs between 30 and 72 hours and a dozen steps to make, including several stages of slow and natural rising.

The dough of a high-end panettone begins as a blend of wheat, flour, water, milk, and fruit which is then set aside to ferment. The next step is add flour and water to the starter dough. It’s a slow operation that continues over many hours. Only then does one add the rest of the ingredients – more flour and water as well as sugar, eggs, and butter. The resulting dough is kneaded three times and left to rise after each kneading.

The individual cakes are then portioned and shaped with periods of slow rising in between. Before it goes into the oven, panettone undergoes “scarpatura” (the bakers cut a cross on top of each cake by hand, making it unique and helping it develop flavor).

Then it spends about an hour in the oven at approx. 180 degrees Celsius and is cooled for six to eight hours while hanging upside down to preserve the domed shape.

How to choose a high-quality panettone?

A high-quality cake has an intense and fresh citrus aroma. The smell should be pleasant and not too sharp, as that could be a sign of artificial flavoring overdose.

The crust must be dark golden without burnt patches. When you cut a luxury panettone the color inside should be deep yellow (because more and better yolks were used during production). A lower quality cake will look pale and almost white in comparison.

Inside you should see air pockets. They are called “alveolatura” and are a sign that the dough had enough time to rise. They should be evenly distributed and not too big (huge air holes inside are a sign of poor quality). The same goes for the candied fruit – the pieces should be evenly spread out, not lumping into clusters.

The texture should be moist and fluffy as a cloud, not chewy and sticky. The flavor – balanced, not too sweet and not sour.

Guide to Artisanal Panettone from Italy

Artisanal high-quality panettone is the way to go if you are looking for the best experience (and why would you be looking for anything less than that anyway?). Now let’s figure out how to get one if you can’t do your panettone shopping in Italy in person.

We will be looking mainly at Milan, the capital of panettone action. The jury is still out on which baker creates the best cake in town (there are several annual competitions being held there to establish that!), but some famous pasticcerias are widely known for their dedication to perfection.

Getting a freshly baked panettone delivered to your loved ones (or yourself) straight from Milan is both an understated and an exuberant gesture, and a next-level way to impress anybody who might need impressing. Here is the list of the best Milanese artisanal pasticcerias offering (selective) international shipping.

Shipping costs might be quite steep (so check them out before pressing that “order” button), but if you are reading this magazine, this means you are no stranger to the concept of luxury, which is all about getting (and paying for) the best and most authentic experience.

Gatullo Panettone

Gatullo is a family of pastry makers that opened its first laboratory at Piazzale di Porta Lodovica in Milan in 1961. Since then, they have won many awards. Their panettone takes 30 hours to make and is recognized by the Milanese Chamber of Commerce as adhering to the strict local rules.

Being all about tradition, Gatullo focus on the classic recipe and do not experiment with exotic flavors. Their panettone starts at 32€ for a 750 g cake. The biggest size they sell is 3 kg. They also have different packaging color schemes and gift wrapping to choose from.

www.gattullo.it

Peck Panettone

Peck is a gourmet store and a restaurant with a 140-year-old history that never stopped reinventing itself and offers the best of modern Italian and Milanese cuisine not only in its native city, but also in places as far away as Japan. Peck was the only restaurant that had the honor to represent Italy at the World Expo in 2015.

Needless to say, they offer superb panettone made in a 72-hour process. The flavors go from classic to the more unusual “Amarena, Limone and Almond” or “Pistachio, Coffee and White Chocolate”, prices start at 36€ for a 1 kg cake. You can also get a magnum 4 kg size.

www.peck.it

Biffi Panettone

Want to try panettone fit for a Pope? Go to Biffi. This traditional pastry shop was established in 1847 and developed such a reputation for excellency that Pope Pius X requested to try their panettone. Of course, his wish was granted and Paolo, the head of the Biffi family, presented the pontiff with a cake of “Pharaonic dimensions” decorated with the colors of the Italian flag.

If it’s good enough for the Holy Father, it should be worth a try. Biffi’s panettoni need 40 hours of preparation time, offer the classic palette of flavors, and start at 40€.

www.biffipasticceria.it

Cucchi Panettone

Officially recognized as one of the historic places and pastry shops in Italy and Milan, pasticceria Cucchi was founded in 1936. The interior design carries the air of the 1950s, making it one of the popular places in Milan that went through decades almost unchanged.

Cucchi is now owned by the third generation of the founding family, who take pride in the quality of their ingredients and craftsmanship. Their classic panettone is considered one of the best and costs 39€.

pasticceriacucchi.it

Loison Panettone

The company was founded in Costabissara in 1938 and remains a family business (today in third generation), with Dario Loison overseeing the baking and the business development and his wife Sonia Pilla the design side. They have not only won many awards for their products and philosophy, but are also important ambassadors of panettone culture.

One of their projects is Insolito Panettone – a digital publication dedicated to showing panettone in a new light. Among profiles of chefs and artists, you can find some spectacular sweet and savory recipes featuring panettone in unexpected ways, like Stuffed onions with panettone and parmesan or Borage risotto with stracciatella and panettone.

Another passion project of Dario is the panettone museum where he displays historic documents, baking utensils and graphic art collected all over the world. And as if this were not enough, Loison also host a panettone library!

As you could expect from somebody as passionate about their product, all Loison panettoni take 72 hours to make and use only the best (and, in many cases, single origin) ingredients. You can check out the process on their website.

Flavor-wise, Loison are not limiting themselves to the classics. They have mouth-watering varieties like Rose, Pistacchio Matcha, Licorice & Saffron, Chocolate & Salted Caramel, Fig, or DiVino with a blend of Raisin Wines. The cakes are available in a wide range of sizes (from a single “to go” slice to 10 kg magnums), collections and packaging design (they even have a panettone teddy bear, which is both slightly creepy and very cute).

Their webshop has international shipping, but Loison is also one of the few artisanal panettone makers from Italy with a wide international distribution network spanning all continents. Check their store locator, and you might find their panettoni in an Italian deli next to you.

loison.com

Olivieri 1882 Panettone

Founded in Arzignano in 1882, the company is now run by Nicola Olivieri who rediscovered his passion for leavened products and especially panettone while taking time to work as a pastry chef abroad.

Unlike most other panettone makers in the list whose online shops do not ship overseas, Olivieri 1882 have made a point of serving the US market directly. Customers from the USA get freshly baked panettoni delivered to their doorsteps from Italy right in time for Christmas, which is no small logistic feat.

The flavors range from traditional to innovative – Apricot and Salted Caramel, Rhum and Dark Chocolate, or Peach Amaretto and Chocolate. The two most unusual versions that I’d be excited to try are Panettone With Balsamic Vinegar Of Modena and White Chocolate Olives and Rosemary. The prices go from 75$ to 85$ for 750 g loaves.

olivieri1882.com

Other Italian Panettoni worth trying

What to do if none of the above companies ship to your location? My advice – find an Italian deli or a traditional restaurant near you and see if they import panettone from Italy to sell around Christmas.

There are hundreds of Italian panettone brands out there. If you want to make sure you are getting a reputable artisanal quality product, check out the panettone section of Eataly – they feature many great bakeries each year. Any brand you see on their list will be an excellent option.

Designer Panettone: A Luxury Upgrade

Want to elevate your panettone experience? Go for the cakes by one of the Italian luxury fashion and design houses. They are made in collaboration with the best local artisanal bakers. So in addition to impeccable quality, you are also getting a big name and exquisite collectable packaging – a luxurious gift and a way to indulge your inner fashion junkie.

Dolce&Gabbana Panettone

Italian fashion giant Dolce&Gabbana work with Fiasconaro, a family-run artisan fine bakery, to create their line of panettoni. Both companies are from Sicily, and therefore bring distinctly Sicilian sunny attitude and ingredients to the classic Milanese delicacy – locally grown pistachios, hazelnuts, citruses, chestnuts, and even wine.

Their newest creation is the Traditional panettone with Sicilian Vecchio Samperi Perpetual Wine. Vecchio Samperi is a traditional Marsala wine. It is called “perpetual” in a reference to the ancient perpetuum aging method, where some new young wine is added to the one that is already being aged in barrels. With the panettone, the wine comes in a separate perfume glass bottle and is sprayed on the cut slice as the last step before eating. Its flavor accentuates the aromas of citron and dough, making the sensory experience even richer.

The cakes are sold in colorful collectable tin boxes that are designed by Dolce&Gabbana and can be repurposed after serving as panettone containers and Christmas table eye candy.

Different sizes are available, starting with 500 g for 29€.

www.dolcegabbana.com

Gucci Panettone

The Florentine fashion house is marketing panettone through Osteria Gucci, their global gourmet restaurant brand. The cakes are made for them by the artisanal bakery Olivieri 1882 that we’ve already mentioned above.

Each year Gucci offer one traditional and one special kind of panettone. Special Panettone 2022 features dark chocolate and coffee. The collectable tin box has different colors depending on the size – 0.5, 1 or 2 kg, starting at 50€.

www.gucciosteria.com

Prada Panettone (Marchesi 1824)

Prada do not sell panettone under their main brand, but they own one of the oldest and most luxurious pastry shops in Milan – Marchesi 1824. So, when you buy a Marchesi panettone, you are technically purchasing a Prada Group product, which makes it a cake for those in the know.

The selection is limited to the traditional, chocolate and plain (without candied fruit) options, which are available in different sizes from 1 to 3 kg, with prices starting at 42€. You can get a panettone wrapped in smart monochrome paper or delivered in an elegant tin box.

When it comes to luxurious packaging, however, nothing can beat the sensual look and feel of their green velvet box lined with silk jacquard that houses a 1 kg traditional panettone. This cake wins the prize in the “Most expensive panettone of 2022” category and will set you back 445€.

www.pasticceriamarchesi.com

Armani Panettone

Armani have entrusted Guido Gobino, the dynasty of artisanal chocolate makers from Turin, with creating the panettoni of the Armani/Dolci division. Each holiday season, Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino present a selection of seasonal treats, including exquisite chocolate pralines and panettone made according to the Milanese tradition.

In 2022, they offer four panettone flavors: classic, peach and gianduiotto, Moscato wine, and one with a rich chocolate coating and Guido Gobino decorations. Given their expertise in chocolate, I think the latter one will be the most exciting option.

Armani panettone come either wrapped in paper or placed in a tin box. 2022 box design has a green marble-inspired background with a pattern of intersecting golden lines. You can get a 100 g mini for 13€ or a proper 1 kg cake for 35-44€, depending on the flavor and packaging.

www.armanidolci.com

Fornasetti Panettone

Fornasetti is to interior design what haute couture is to fashion – the instantly recognizable porcelain accessories, lamps, and furniture occupy the highest end of their niche.

Fornasetti 2022 panettone is limited to 400 pieces and made by the Master baker from Milan, Davide Longoni. It’s based on the classic recipe with raisins and candied orange plus citron peel, but also features saffron that adds a special twist to the taste. The yellow and black box is made of paper. The 1.5 kg cake costs 120€.

www.fornasetti.com

Panettone Lifestyle: Accessories, Fashion, and Film

Want even more panettone in your life? Consider some panettone accessories. These can not only fully immerse you into panettone culture, but will also make an excellent gift for any panettone lover that you know.

Make your home smell like panettone heaven with the candle from Acqua di Parma. It’s aptly named “Panettone” and requires no further explanation.

Express your panettone side by dressing the part. Numerous more or less silly and fun T-shirts with panettone prints await you on Amazon. But you will score many extra fashion points by getting your hands on the legendary and now vintage Moschino panettone ensemble (consisting of a dress (also here), a skirt, and a jacket).

Up your panettone game by getting the right serving tools. Present in style on a proper panettone plate (here from Alessi). Slice like a pro with a special panettone knife (sleek modern stainless steel design from Sambonet (also available in gold) or made from silver plated nickel by Broggi). And serve with ease using a dedicated panettone fork (925 silver, 800 silver or silver plated).

Or get your friends and watch some cinepanettoni together! The word is a combination of cinema and panettone and is lovingly used to describe a special silly type of Italian comedy films that are released before Christmas. A very Italian phenomenon and generally considered to be the opposite of good cinema, these movies are so bad that they’ve developed a kind of cult following of their own. If you approach them with the right expectations (and a slice of panettone instead of popcorn) they can make for a ridiculously fun pastime.

What’s the best panettone you’ve ever tried?

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