Comparing Chanel Sycomore edp to 2022 Sycomore extrait de parfum

Sycomore 1930: the OG

The story of Chanel’s Sycomore starts in 1930 when the first perfume with this name was created by Ernest Beaux (the author of No. 5) under the guidance of Coco Chanel herself. Living in Paris and enjoying her success, she named it after the tree that symbolized her childhood spent near Auvergne, France, and its age-old volcanic soil. The perfume was about being connected to earth and the ground.

That, however, was so long ago that only a few bottles survive, if at all. And those that do are nearly impossible to get, cost a fortune, and the scents inside them have probably changed greatly (lost their lighter top notes in the best-case scenario, or gone completely off in the worst). So while it would be interesting to sniff the 1930 original, today it’s nearly impossible. (If you ever get a chance, please, write a comment and let me know about the experience!)

Sycomore edt: Eau de toilette from 2008

When Chanel introduced their Les Exclusifs perfume collection in the 2000s, it was only logical that they’d reissue the iconic Sycomore as part of it. Sycomore joined the Chanel Exclusives in 2008 as an eau de toilette, formulated by the brand’s in-house perfumer Jacques Polge. It gained a significant fan base. Yet, the first generation of Les Exclusifs was retired several years later. The complete collection was overhauled and the edt concentration was replaced by the same fragrances as edp.

Fans of the first modern Sycomore edt version still miss it. Some swear it was in every way superior to the current edp iteration. I cannot tell because the edt era was over before I got interested in Chanel’s less mainstream fragrance offerings. Vintage bottles still circulate on eBay and different forums, but I don’t see the point of hunting down the discontinued unicorn, when the easily available current generation of Sycomore is so good.

Sycomore edp: Eau de parfum from 2016

And so, we have arrived at the status quo – the main current Sycomore type is the eau de parfum that replaced the edt in 2016, created by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake. This is the first Sycomore edition that I have tried, and one of my favorites from Les Exclusifs de Chanel. There is no need for an in-depth review of it here, as it is a widely known fragrance and there are hundreds and maybe even thousands of fragrance experts, bloggers, and influencers who have already written and vlogged everything there is to say about it.

Sycomore edp is often used as a reference for a vetiver perfume because this material really shines in the composition. It’s warm and enveloping, leaving a velvety sensation – all the distinctive qualities of vetiver that we love. It feels almost like vetiver is the only note present there – soft, slightly smoky, woody and earthy haze with milky-green nuances of young hazelnuts envelops your nostrils from the first seconds and stays with you for several hours. I don’t notice any major development here, my experience is that Sycomore is an addictive vertical vetiver fragrance with a powerful projection that remains noticeable throughout the day.

Sycomore parfum: Extrait de parfum from 2022

The main staple of Les Exclusifs are the eaux de parfum in tall bottles. To keep things interesting and to give loyal fans something new to buy without over-expanding the perfume collection (which happened to Dior, for example – their Maison Christian Dior Collection got bloated with over 30 different fragrances, and now they have to painfully cut back to make it manageable again) they bring out the existing fragrances as highly concentrated extraits de parfum every couple of years.

2022 was the turn of Sycomore. In addition to Jacques Polge’s edp, you can now also buy a Sycomore parfum in the iconic rectangular 15 ml bottle with a glass stopper created by his son Olivier Polge, who took over from his father as the in-house perfumer of Chanel.

So, does it smell the same? Or are there any differences between the two? If you already have the edp, do you also need Sycomore as parfum, or will it be a redundant addition to your fragrance wardrobe because the scent is identical to the eau de parfum? I went to the store, got a sample, wore it for several days comparing the new extrait to the old edp, and here are the answers.

In short: Sycomore edp and Sycomore extrait de parfum are two different fragrances. They share parts of the vibe, but the differences are so pronounced that I wouldn’t worry about buying the same scent in two different bottles. What are the key differences?

1. First, the scent. Where the edp starts and ends with vetiver without changing much in the middle, the extrait actually develops and evolves on skin over time. And there is no (or almost no) vetiver in the beginning. When you apply it to skin (by dabbing the end of the bottle stopper onto the pulse points, as the bottle has no spray cap), the first thing you smell is hay. Glorious late summer hay, not yet completely dry, warmed by the sun, a mix of muffled greens and promising yellows, aromas of earth mingling with black tea nuances.

This hay accord is masterfully constructed, I cannot tell where one part of it begins and the next one ends. You feel its complexity, but are unable to dissect it into individual parts because everything is perfectly blended. And if you look at the official description, there is no word about hay there. The listed notes are vetiver, iris, cedar, leather, and vanilla. It’s a bit of a mystery how these pieces create the illusion of hay, but they do. A perfect representation of late summer and fall, so the release date in the first days of September 2022 was chosen wisely.

This hay accord dominates for the first 20-30 minutes. As time goes by, vetiver starts to emerge. It’s the same smoky, soft, woody-earthy hazy vetiver that you recognize from the edp. Yet here it is muted, merging with the hay opening. Unlike in Sycomore edp, here the vetiver is unable to dominate the rest of the composition. It becomes recognizable, yet stays a backdrop to the cleaner hay.

The eau de parfum version feels velvety to the touch because of the smoky haze and a tiny bit of earthy powder coming from tobacco and iris. Sycomore extrait, on the other hand, is soft and warm, but more like silk rather than velvet because of the hay accord that’s giving it a smoother quality.

2. The second-biggest difference is the overall mood. Sycomore parfum is reminding me of the golden late summer light when the sun is hanging low above the horizon before the sunset. Subdued, a bit melancholic, and quite poetic. Edp, on the other hand, is more straightforward. It’s decadent because of the rich brown vetiver, but the seeming simplicity of the composition where vetiver shines as the only star makes it more down to earth and less lost in thought than the extrait. Edp is an invitation to indulge in the here and now, what you smell is what you get all the way. Extrait is about creating a beautiful and elegant backdrop to a daydream without clear outlines.
3. The third distinction is more about the technical characteristics. As edp, Sycomore has a much stronger sillage, one can even say it’s a striking fragrance that is capable of announcing itself to your surroundings, especially in the first couple of hours. Sycomore parfum is much less noticeable. It’s an intimate experience designed to be your own private pleasure. Its projection is much weaker than that of edp.

This is somewhat surprising, as brands usually advertise higher concentration as a guarantee of stronger projection. This is repeated so often by so many that nowadays the link between concentration and strength is considered to be common knowledge. If you ask a professional perfumer, however, he or she will tell you that there is no linear dependency between the two. Chanel’s extraits de parfum from Les Exclusifs line are a case in point.

You won’t find any marketing talk about sillage around them because they are officially designed to be close to skin, personal, and quiet. Something you wear just for yourself and nobody else, an indulgence for your senses only. This means that the two Sycomores are probably best worn in different situations. Edp – when you’d like others to partake in your scented joy. Extrait – when you don’t feel sharing your fragrance aura with others is appropriate or desired, it’s more of a quiet companion compared to edp.

Conclusion: Is it worth having both in the collection?

Do you need Sycomore perfume extract if you already have Sycomore edp?

There is no such thing as “needing” a perfume, especially a pricey one. Having said that, the two are sufficiently different to justify having both in the collection. They tell different stories, set different moods and are suitable for different occasions.

In my case I’ve decided against purchasing Sycomore extrait (for now) because I already have a large collection and am currently not craving such quiet compositions. Plus, with €240 for only 15 ml it’s on the expensive end, even for niche perfumery. It’s the ultimate luxury – to have something so exquisite, truly only for yourself.

If you’d like to buy Sycomore, extrait or edp, there are several options available, depending on how much you’d like to splurge and your appreciation of collectables. Currently, Chanel is offering four different Sycomore versions.

You can choose edp in regular packaging or go for the limited edition box lined with wooden panels that are referencing a design by Coco from 1930. The box does look nice, and if you are a Chanel fan, it’s actually a reasonable purchase because the mark-up for the limited edition packaging is very modest by Chanel’s standards.

As for the newly issued Sycomore extrait de parfum, it seems to be less about modesty. The regular 15 ml bottle is available in the standard black and white paper box. However, if you are really into Sycomore, Chanel and spending money, there is also the super-limited edition made just for the occasion – Sycomore and Maisons d’Art Coffret. For €10.000 you’ll get 50 ml (instead of the regular 15 ml) in a Baccarat crystal bottle housed in a stunning hand-decorated diorama-style box. The lining of the coffret is embroidered by the masters of Maison Lesage, who’ve been making tweed and haute couture embroidery for Chanel for many decades. Only 50 of these limited-edition bottles have been created. If you are into collecting such truly unique items, Chanel have three more Maisons d’Art parfums available – Gardenia, Beige, and Coromandel.

So, what Sycomore will it be for you? What are your favorites from Les Exclusifs?

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