Size matters: big Esxence 2023 perfume trade show report, part 1

Most reports about Esxence focus on individual brand & fragrance discoveries, sharing the excitement akin to that of a kid in a candy shop. And while I feel as excited about what I’ve seen and smelled there, I also have an analytic mind that looks for the big picture, patterns and connections first. What I think is missing in the discussion of Esxence is a deeper analysis of the event’s purpose, the pros and cons of its format, and the trends it sets in motion for the perfume market.

In the first part of my Esxence report I’ll cover the event itself, in the second I’ll share my take on the overall fragrance industry trends from the business perspective, and in the final third part will take a look at the scent trends from a consumer point of view – what types of olfactory profiles and notes will be en vogue in the next couple of years.

Let’s dive in!

Esxence 2023 Theme

Esxence 2023 took place in Milan’s MiCo Convention Center over four days between March 30th and April 2nd. It’s the biggest perfume industry event in the niche world, aimed at professionals including brands, distributors, buyers, and shop owners, as well as bloggers and influencers. A record number of 10.300 visitors came to see the trade fair this year.

The theme of the 2023 edition of Esxence was “Iridescent”, inviting the visitors to “discover the world through the light of perfume”. If I were to retroactively give the show a tag line, it would sound rather different. More like “The Big Blur: Discover the world of perfume through the pleasure of smelling and the pain of missing out”.

As you can guess, I found both a lot to love and enough to rant about. Let’s do the rant first, because this is the kind of open secret everybody knows, but no editor, blogger or YouTuber will write or talk about in public. (Good thing, we at cosmetiqua.com are fully independent and free to say whatever we think needs to be said.)

Size – the Biggest Challenge of Esxence 2023

The biggest elephant in the room is the size of the event. It matters and has become a problem. 300 – that’s how many brands exhibited at Esxence in 2023. There were too many stands and perfume collections for any human being to cover in four days. The fear of missing out (FOMO) was immediately felt the moment you made the first turn inside the booth labyrinth and realized just how big the show was. (And the fact that booths with numbers over 100 were not even remotely close to those in the 90-99 row made you wonder about the calculus genius who had devised the floor plan.)

I know several brands who used to previously exhibit at Esxence and have now decided against it. Some big commercially successful houses with established distribution networks don’t see additional benefit of participation and prefer to meet their partners in a more relaxed and pleasant atmosphere during TFWA in Cannes. Smaller artistic brands shy away from the increasingly commercial character of the event and tend to opt for the more intimate Pitti Fragranze in Florence.

Bertrand Duchaufour, Pedro Simoes Dias from Comporta, Yana from Cosmetiqua Magazine & Stephanie Bakouche at the launch of Will at Esxence 2023

Realistically speaking, most visitors probably didn’t need to see everything. If you are in distribution or retail, you likely have a very good idea about a dozen or so new fragrance houses you’d like to take a closer look at. The rest of your schedule will be taken up by meetings with your existing partners. The ever curious journalists and bloggers are forced to prioritize too.

One of the sad consequences is the relative loss of exposure for newcomers. Fledgling brands must work extra hard to get noticed. Just hoping for a lucky break won’t cut it. If you’ve just launched as a brand, your only chance of getting enough visitors relevant to your business is to try to identify and invite the key agents, distributors and press to your stand in advance.

The exhibition space was divided into the areas for 100 main brands (well-known big companies) and 200 young “spotlight” brands. The Oxford language dictionary defines a spotlight as “a lamp projecting a narrow, intense beam of light directly on to a place or person“. In my mind, if your lamp is illuminating 2/3 of your space, it ain’t a spotlight no more. Using the lighting analogy, it would be more fitting to call an area with 200 booths “fill light” (a lighting technique used to reduce the contrast of the scene and make it seem average and normal to the human eye looking at the resulting footage).

A testament to that is a one-hour panel discussion dedicated to the topic of navigating the overwhelming number of booths. There, some of my favorite perfume people were very politely and passionately encouraging the attendees to try and allocate 1/3 of their time to new brand discovery (frankly, unrealistic). Or to set a goal of discovering at least some newcomers. But with so much to see and do, it’s easier said than done. The very existence of such an event in the official Esxence schedule shows just how difficult it is for new names to stand out from the crowd.

Another downside to having so many brands in one place is the shrinking space each one gets to occupy, as the size of the venue stays the same. While this isn’t necessarily a bad thing, the addition of free admission for the general public can make it feel more like a crowded bazaar than an event dedicated to perfume art. (And creates concerns the Italian organizers might not be taking safety too seriously – evacuating a huge convention hall that packed with people would probably have been a nightmare. Luckily, we didn’t have to find out.)

Outlook for Future Editions of Esxence: Growth and Commercialization

What are the takeaways here? The record number of exhibitors means two things.

Bogdana, Josephine from Jus-de-Rose, Sarah Colton & Yana Cosmetiqua at Nishane party, Esxence 2023

First, the industry is growing. For years, the niche (or artistic, as it prefers to call itself) end of the global perfume market has been its fastest growing segment. This trend shows no signs of stopping. In the coming decade, we will see even more brands entering the market. The amount of new fragrance releases will explode further, and the need for thoughtful and customer-tailored curation will become key to any successful brand or retail strategy. This last bit makes me especially happy as that’s exactly where Cosmetiqua.com magazine and Perfumestry.com discovery service, two of my companies, shine.

Second, although still called “The art perfumery event”, Esxence has transitioned to firmly center around commerce, rather than artistry.

On their website, you can find a description of a rigorous multistep selection process that presents the organizing committee in the role of the Guardians of the Good Taste of the Fragrance Galaxy. Yet, my feeling is that the flood gates have irreversibly opened. In the world where you are no longer able to truly study every applicant because there are too many, it makes sense to act as a more egalitarian platform, allowing access to anybody who is interested. The only restriction that seems to be still in place is the available space on the convention floor (11,000 sq. metres).

Overall, I think the future editions of Esxence will be even bigger and messier, with more stress and less space for exhibitors. However, for visitors with an open mind and a willingness to explore, there will be plenty of opportunities to discover something new and exciting.

Five Things I Love about Esxence

Now let’s segue to the positive sides of Esxence 2023.

First, people. I know it sounds cliché, but it’s true. There’s just something special about being in the same room with your fragrance friends and enthusiasts, experiencing the joy of smelling new scents together, and having meaningful conversations. In a world where we’re increasingly reliant on technology to connect with one another, there’s simply no substitute for real, face-to-face interactions.

At Tiziana Terenzi Influencer Dinner Esxence 2023

Of course, the thousands of fragrances to smell are another major draw of Esxence. Whether you’re into cutting-edge conceptual creations or more classic, elegant scents, there’s something for everyone at this event. And because many brands choose to debut their newest releases at Esxence, attendees have the opportunity to be among the first to smell and rate the perfumes that will soon be hitting store shelves around the world.

With all the smelling comes the ability to gauge trends and get a sense of where the industry is headed. For somebody like me, it’s the best place to conduct fragrance market research and gather perfume statistics, with a gold mine of condensed information available. The patterns are not always visible at the first glance, but with a little perspective and a couple of days to process it all after the show, many developments become clear.

Third, the event program. There were 26 workshops, conferences and panel discussions scheduled. I have to confess, I haven’t made it to a single one this year (see the point about too many exhibitors and too little time to see them), but it’s a fantastic opportunity to witness experts and key players talk about their work, as well as chances and challenges the industry is facing. The fact that the records of them are available to watch online after the fact is a major plus. I suggest you check them out even if you haven’t attended the show.

With the hosts of Nishane’s X Anniversary Party, Esxence 2023

Fourth, all the off-site action. Some of the most exciting events take place after hours, when various brands host parties around the city. Nishane comes to mind – Mert, Murat & the team know how to make even the most introverted perfume lovers hit the dance floor, and this year they have even organized a lavish dinner in a spectacular palazzo to celebrate the 10-year anniversary of the brand. There have also been great events by Tiziana Terenzi, Xerjoff, Bois 1920, as well as the traditional big Esxence exhibitor party.

Many perfume houses hold private presentations outside the venue. Some are lucky to have a shop and a showroom in Milan (like, Rubeus), others rent a space at one of the many cool hotels around the Duomo (Stephane Humbert Lucas has set up a spectacular multisensory experience to tease the newest creation dedicated to the color blue, for example).

Even apart from all the swanky invitation-only events, I don’t think there is a single person attending the show who eats dinner alone during the fair. It’s a priceless opportunity to have a good time with partners who have become friends and vice versa in an informal setting while sharing a glass (or several) of wine!

And that brings me to the final thing I love about Esxence: the city itself. With its countless museums, restaurants, and shopping opportunities, Milan is a vibrant and exciting place to explore. So if you’re considering attending Esxence, I highly recommend taking some days afterward to explore the city and soak up all that it has to offer.

How to Visit Esxence if You are not an Industry Professional

One of the most frequently asked questions I get about Esxence is if it’s possible to attend the famous perfume trade show without being a fragrance industry insider. The answer is yes – anyone can attend it, even if you’re not a shop owner, distributor, a popular YouTuber or a blogger. All you need to do is register online and get your free visitor pass. This free ticket gives you access to the venue on the day(s) open to the public. Keep an eye on the Esxence website, as registration usually opens about a month before the exhibition starts.

Yana from Cosmetiqua Magazine & Gabriel Gabor at Esxence 2023

The second question I receive is about samples. Are brands generous enough to give away free samples to visitors? Here the answer is more nuanced. Perfume houses attend to close deals with their business partners, and they bring along samples for potential buyers to try out the new releases and make final purchasing decisions at home. The main focus is not on presenting scents to the general public.

However, if you are genuinely interested in a particular brand or fragrance, head over to their stand and strike up a pleasant conversation. Make sure not to be annoying, as the staff are under immense time pressure and have a full meeting schedule. If you show a real interest, most exhibitors will be happy to give you a sample to try at home if they have any left. And if they have run out, don’t take it personally – they’re doing the best they can.

What you don’t want to do is be rude or demanding, acting as if free samples are your birthright. Being nice is always the way to go.

Have you ever attended Esxence? Share your experiences in the comments, or let me know if you are interested in going in the future!

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